We had a great week snowboarding in Ellmau in mid January. The pistes are perfect for beginners and intermediates and it's a great place to learn to board (although I'd agree with Nicky that the change from nursery to blue runs is quite dramatic). The town is lovely and picturesque - perfect for romantic evenings for two! Unfortunately, we did find the range of food a bit limited, particularly for a vegetarian. However, by far the worst thing about the village was that everyone smoked indoors, particularly during meals and even at breakfast! The stink of smoke lingering on our clothes after every meal would definitely make us think twice about going back to Austria.