Broken River, New Zealand

James Broadbent from NEW ZEALAND writes:

Broken River (or BR to those who know it) ranks highly for snow, terrain and all round good times. Its main basin consistently gets the best snow on the whole Craigieburn Range. Two high speed nutcracker rope tows take skiers and boarders up to access this basin, which is big enough to give fresh lines all day after a snowfall. The Ridge Tow goes higher up to Nervous Knob to access steeper lines, and leads over into Allan’s Basin, another vast area of snow. There is access to the backcountry further south along the range, and it is also possible to ski over to Craigieburn and back for a day. Craigieburn honours Broken River lift tickets (and vice versa) so you can have a few runs there before returning.
Palmer Lodge is the day lodge in the main ski basin, open to the public. Hanging out on the north-facing deck in the sunshine is the place to be for lunch, or a cup of tea or even a beer between runs. Bring your own sandwiches or buy a pie. Jumps and rails nearby provide entertainment as you eat. Chat with the local club members and pick up tips on where the snow is good today.
Broken River’s terrain mainly suits intermediate to advanced skiers and boarders, but there is a small beginner area near Palmer Lodge where the next generations of BR members learn to ride. The Palmer Lodge area is also popular with New Zealand’s native mountain parrot, the Kea. All Kea are named ‘Harry’ and they are notorious kleptomaniacs – watch your gear closely or Harry might fly off with it!
The skifield is accessed from Highway 73 via a gravel road through beech forest. Carry tyre chains at all times. Beyond the carpark there is a 30 minute walk up to the lodges and rope tows. There is a goods lift to carry your luggage and skis, so the forest walk is a pleasant one. The ski area overlooks the fantastic scenery of the Castle Hill Basin, and from the top of the main tow the views include Mount Rolleston, the Arrowsmith mountains and the Harper and Wilberforce Rivers.
The staff are keen riders themselves, so they are on the same wavelength you are on, and very approachable. Professional and volunteer ski patrollers keep the place running safely. Club members are always friendly and helpful to those who are new to the nutcracker tows; don’t let those lifts put you off. If you have never ridden a nutcracker tow before, it will be a challenge initially, but persevere with it. Once you have the knack the tows are simple and efficient to ride. The tows operate from 9am to 5pm, and twice a week depending on weather there is floodlit night skiing also.
When you have finally had enough, it’s only a short walk back down to the accommodation lodges. The evenings are social and relaxed. The accommodation is on three levels of service. There is self-catering bunkrooms, club-style bunkrooms (with communal duties and meals included) and fully catered and serviced accommodation. All are good value. BR club members get 50% discount on everything. If you love what you see, ask about joining the club; new members are always welcome.
Often the other ski areas are shut due to high winds or excess snow (or not enough snow) and Broken River just keeps on skiing. Even at the end of the season through late October and even into November, when other ski areas have shut, BR keeps on operating for as long as there is snow. Broken River is a real snow rider’s mountain. Everybody is there for the skiing and boarding. Egos are discouraged and the only attitude is a positive one. The BR experience is addictive: try it, you’ll like it.

2005-07-13

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